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Growing Together: My Visit to Puerto Rico's Vanilla Cooperative

Gina Empson, (with the blue hat) together with the Vainilla Castañers LLC cooperative members

An Inaugural Meeting

I recently had a memorable experience during a trip to Vainilla Castañers LLC, a fascinating cooperative in Puerto Rico. As a vanilla farm owner and producer from the beautiful island Federation of St. Kitts & Nevis, it was an honour to be invited to their inaugural meeting.

The Birth of Vainilla Castañers Cooperative

First, let me tell you a bit about this amazing cooperative which has been created as part of the effort to resurrect the tradition of planting and growing vanilla in Puerto Rico and as an agricultural product that can contribute substantially to the development of agriculture and the economy. Although a Facebook group has existed since 2018, the cooperative behind this name was officially created on July 23rd 2023, with 35 passionate members. As I was welcomed to the meeting, I received a vanilla bean and a vial of vanilla extract: a much-appreciated gesture. 

The Vanilla Challenge in Puerto Rico

Castañer is located in Lares district, Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico was once an important centre for vanilla production and research. In the decades from 1930 to 1950, Puerto Rico was the ninth largest vanilla producer worldwide with some 434 acres devoted to vanilla over 168 farms. In 1944-1945 over 6,000lbs of cured vanilla and 2,000lbs of unprocessed or green vanilla were exported. (ref: Dr. Paul Bayman Gupta, internationally recognized botanist in the world of vanilla).

Then in 1953 vanilla production fell to 350 lbs – why, what happened? The main cause was Fusarium, a disease that causes the vanilla’s roots to rot. Other causes were high labour costs and a general reluctance to work on farms when the “big city” beckoned.

But times have changed, now 70 years on. There are plant protection options to treat the root rot and a new generation of farmers motivated by sustainable farming are ready to reintroduce vanilla. It is a privilege for us to be able to revive history in the year 2023 through the creation of the Vanilla Cooperative”, commented Lcda. Millyvette Garcia Santos of the Board of Directors of VanillaCoop.

Embracing Shared Experiences and Knowledge

The Agronomist, Señor Gregorio Rivera Soto, stood out as the most experienced in vanilla production. He shared his remarkable success in harvesting 3,000 beans this year. Señor Rivera also cultivates coffee and cacao and told me he dreams of selling locally made vanilla, coffee, and chocolate ice cream. His expertise and knowledge were acknowledged by all the growers present.

However, vanilla farming does come with its own set of challenges, and Señor Rivera warned me about possible issues, such as rust on the leaves, which he has encountered. Sharing experiences and challenges is a key aspect of such visits, as it allows us to learn and support one another on our respective vanilla farming journeys.

The primary goal of this cooperative is to make vanilla a secondary and cash crop, complementing their existing coffee and cacao plantations. I was also able to sample the excellent coffee from Pedro Bengochea Santiago with his “Castañer Supremo” label. One grower shared her story of dedicating her time more to coffee farming, which is her main source of income, making it a bit challenging to fully focus on vanilla just yet.

The Historical Heritage

During my visit, I was also shown the US Agricultural Department report from 1948, a remarkable document that provided insights into the extent of vanilla production in the past and detailed the methodologies used. The document – see the reference below - mentions Castañers where a central cooperative curing plant for vanilla beans was created by the USA in 1940: I found out that the current hospital outpatient building in Castañers was once this very vanilla processing plant. It was transformed when vanilla production ceased, adding a fascinating layer of history to the cooperative. You can see the original building on page 9 of the USDA document. The USDA document is an early encyclopedia on how to plant, pollinate, maintain, harvest and cure vanilla beans, with some charming pencil drawings of the pollination process, and colour photos of vanilla plants. I was fascinated to be able to discover this historical document.

A Promise of Support and Collaboration

As I left Vainilla Castañers, I couldn't help but feel a sense of camaraderie with my fellow growers. We agreed to stay in touch and support each other in our vanilla endeavors. I’m truly grateful for the open invitation they extended to me, and I’ve reciprocated the same gesture with a welcome to my farm on the island of Nevis.

I wish the members of Vainilla Castañers all the luck and success in their vanilla, coffee, and cacao ventures.

If you ever find yourself in Puerto Rico, be sure to pay a visit to this thriving vanilla cooperative and experience the magic of vanilla firsthand.

Gina is proud of her vanilla plants back on Nevis

https://www.facebook.com/vainillacastanerpr

USDA “Vanilla Culture in Puerto Rico”. 1948

https://www.growables.org/information/TropicalFruit/documents/VanillaUSDA.pdf